In the backcountry, I always find myself craving strange things, and it is much the same when I travel. When I was in Costa Rica a few years ago, I fantasized almost constantly about lo mein; in Bolivia, all I wanted in the world was a seaweed salad and lemon merengue pie. I mentioned as much in an email while I was gone, and when I arrived back there was a homemade pie waiting for me.


He dropped it off with the rest of my things two days later: bittersweet.